Einsy Rambo 5v to 12v fan (no replies)

September 1, 2018, 4:03 pm

≫ Next: Wiring SD card reader to MKS 1.4 (no replies)

≪ Previous: Advice for adding OLED display to MKS Gen L printer (no replies)

$

0

0

I'm building my own Prusa i3 Mk3 and as many Einsy Rambo users, i'm having some trouble finding 5vdc fans, so i'm gonna make a small circuit to drive the 12v fans, looks like no one did this yet.
But here comes the first problem: i'm a mechanical engineer and my electronic skills and balls aren't bit enough to try on a brand new Einsy Rambo.
My idea comes from the ADM1028 datasheet as you can see here:
[attachment 106824 12vfandrivecircuit.png]

I have been looking the Einsy schematics and for me it looks like the fan's uses a simple pwm circuit control, the same used for pcs to drive 3 wire fans (fans without pwm wire/4 wires)
I think this idea is possible using a power regulator to drop the 24v power source to drive the 12v fans.

These are the fans i'm gonna use: "412" and "RLF 35-8/12 N", both made by ebm-pabst

---

Wiring SD card reader to MKS 1.4 (no replies)

September 10, 2018, 4:55 am

≫ Next: Noise on temperatur sensors - MKS Gen 1.4 (5 replies)

≪ Previous: Einsy Rambo 5v to 12v fan (no replies)

$

0

0

Upgraded my CR-10 to an MKS gen1.4 for more pins and program memory. Everything's working fine besides the fact there is no SD card reader as I wanted to save the original screen. I bought this one and wired it up to accordingly to the diagram I linked below. I supplied 5 volts from the aux3 pins and verified the reader was getting power with a multimeter. Wouldnt read anything. Plugged in the integrated SD card reader on another screen, gave it 5 volts, and it worked fine.

Anything I'm doing wrong? It's such a simple board so I'm really skeptical that it's a DOA.

[drive.google.com]

Noise on temperatur sensors - MKS Gen 1.4 (5 replies)

September 18, 2018, 7:08 pm

≫ Next: Replace a Mightyboard? (no replies)

≪ Previous: Wiring SD card reader to MKS 1.4 (no replies)

$

0

0

Hi.

I have a problem with my controller. I just upgraded my printer to 24 volts. I am using a 24 volt LED power supply and an MKS Gen 1.4 controller. After I've upgraded to 24 volts, I discovered a lot of noise on my temperature sensors. When I use 12 volts, there's hardly any noise (there may be a bit of noise, but I've only noticed it after I've started looking for it). When I just drive it on 5 volts via the USB port, there is no noise (beyond what you can expect from a normal thermistor).

I first thought it was the 24 volt power supply, but I have now tried two different (of different brands) and the noise does not disappear. I have also tried a MKS gen L controller, but here there is also noise.

I would really like to avoid buying a new controller as I am waiting for the Duet Maestro to come to the EU. Is there anyone who has a good proposal for a solution. Could I possibly change the controller so that it only gets 5 volts via USB?
I have attached pictures of the hotend sensor when running on 12 volts, 24 volts and 5 volts via USB.

5V:
[attachment 107047 5v.png]

12V:
[attachment 107048 12v.png]

24V:
[attachment 107049 24v2.png]

Replace a Mightyboard? (no replies)

September 22, 2018, 2:42 pm

≫ Next: Calling all Rumba experts (no replies)

≪ Previous: Noise on temperatur sensors - MKS Gen 1.4 (5 replies)

$

0

0

I have an old CTC Replicator clone with a Mightyboard RevE and I hate that wretched board, RepG, no software bed levelling, Makerbot dialect gcode, no significant safety features I know of. It just makes printing a hard work.

Now its a 24V board not like a Ramps board, can you please recommend an alternative, it's a small printer so even 8 bit should be Ok, and of course easy drop in and low cost with high reliability. Well Ok that one's a big ask :).

I'd like to build so I want this going as best it can to print the bits :)


Best Regards. Aamcle

Calling all Rumba experts (no replies)

October 3, 2018, 10:22 am

≫ Next: Heated Bed aluminium 31x31 FLSun Cube draining power (no replies)

≪ Previous: Replace a Mightyboard? (no replies)

$

0

0

I am in the process of installing Marlin on a Creatbot DX. It is an Ultimaker clone that uses a Rumba derived controller.

[attachment 107415 IMG_1569-1.jpg]

I have most everything working but need to confirm a few things:

1) The hot end uses K-Type thermistors connected to an AD597 amplifier. I set the the temperature sensor type to -1 and used the standard analog pin 15. From what I am given to understand, this should not work but I seem to get the correct temperature. When I tried to use pin A10, the system reports a max temp error and kills the printer. Is this the correct setup?

2) I traced the fan MOSFETs on the circuit board to pins 16 and 17 of the 2560 which corresponds to PWM pins 8 and 7 on the Rumba. Unfortunately they do not respond to M106 nor do they turn un when I heat up the hot end. Any ideas?

3) The physical power button is connected to header labelled switch on the controller. It does turn on the printer but will not shut off. Is this a safety mechanism for cooling down the heads?

4) The DX uses a USB key instead of an SD card but Marlin can't see it. The board it is connected has a a CH376S USB control / serial bridge. The output seems to go to a serial header on the mother board.

[attachment 107414 IMG_1570-1.jpg]

[attachment 107411 IMG_1572-1.jpg]

6) Finally, the DX uses a Dwin touch panel connected via serial. It's the same one used in the Wanhao Duplicator. What do I need to add to my pin's config to enable?

Thank you!

Heated Bed aluminium 31x31 FLSun Cube draining power (no replies)

October 6, 2018, 3:52 pm

≫ Next: MKS SBASE v1.3 with MKS TFT 32 problems (no replies)

≪ Previous: Calling all Rumba experts (no replies)

$

0

0

Hello guys,

I am in the process to upgrade lot of parts on my 3D printer, like PSU, Drivers, mechanics etc

I have a huge problem that is causing me lot of trouble with the Heated bed.

I dunno when the exact moment happened but now the Printer is start draining power from the PSU when a Heated Bed is fully On.

I have a FLSun Cube bought from Amazon and used happily for about two months.
Now The internal driver circuitry with the Makerbase 1.0 (whch uses the HY3403 Mosfet SMD) doesn't seem to work properly (the Mosfet is still controllable and it has no short)

the On/Off command is ok but not the Power necessary to heat the Bed (310x310 Aluminium plate with printed traces on the bottom surface).

I've checked the resistance of the Bed with a multimeter [0.7 ohm] powerd at 12V.
With a simple P=V*I I calculated roughly 200W necessary.
the PSU is a classic LED Power supply IP67 fanless 300W and dedicated only for the monstre power needed by the Heated Bed.

I tried to drive externally the Heated Bed with another driver (external classic power mosfet optoisolated module) but it is not enough. it starts blowing the traces and smokes).
Using the onboard mosfet only it started melting tin and burning copper aroung the infaust heated bed Connector (why less than 2mm thin copper trace between drain Mosfet and the connector nobody knows...).

with this problem the PSU Power meter detect an absorbtion of 388W !!!!!!

I read some information on the Internet but it is not really clear for me. Shorted Bed? how do I know if the bed is shorted witha measured Resistance of roughly 0.7ohm ?

I don't think is a damage on the brancd new Mosfet driver or the Makerbase 1.0 board at the Mosfet area all the signals are still ok and the Oscilloscope sees the PWM signals of the Gate drive.

Any power hungry free solution please ? :)

... the Extruder is working fine. even if I use the onboard mosfet or an external mosfet driver ( a FLIR camera shows cold temp. for the mosfet driving the heating extruder block)
... the Heated Bed start the warm up procedure and I see the temp rising but not fast (and power hungry).

thx.
callisto.

MKS SBASE v1.3 with MKS TFT 32 problems (no replies)

October 9, 2018, 1:08 pm

≫ Next: Gen 7 2.0 and teacup-arm not working with pronterface or repetier (no replies)

≪ Previous: Heated Bed aluminium 31x31 FLSun Cube draining power (no replies)

$

0

0

I'm in the process of replacing my Melzi board (burned out) on my tronxy x3a printer, and bought a MKS SBASE v1.3 and MKS TFT32. I've worked through most of my issues, but one still is nagging at me.

Firmware.bin doesn't rename to firmware.cur when it's on the SD card on boot up. Not sure if it's flashing the firmware or not, I think not, but I have no way to tell. Any suggestions?

Gen 7 2.0 and teacup-arm not working with pronterface or repetier (no replies)

October 11, 2018, 7:11 am

≫ Next: Einsy Rambo 1.1 + Reprapdiscount LCD 2004 issue (1 reply)

≪ Previous: MKS SBASE v1.3 with MKS TFT 32 problems (no replies)

$

0

0

Hello everyone :)

I started building a Prusa I3 a couple of weeks ago and I decided to use the Gen7 Board-ARM v2.0 hardware to control it.
I've cloned the gen 7 electronics repository, etched the PCB and soldered all the components as per the assembly page: [reprap-diy.com]

I checked every trace for continuity, also making sure the PCB has no shorts between pins and components. After that, I hooked up an ATX power supply and did the voltage measurements as listed here: [reprap-diy.com]
Everything is looking fine so far.

Next I did the serial loopback test to ensure the MCP2200 is working. I attached a serial terminal and everything looked alright. All characters were echoed back to the PC, so I put the LPC1114 in the socket.

After that, I cloned the teacup master repository.
- I fired up configtool.py and loaded up board.gen7-arm.h and printer.mendel.h
- I modified the steps per meter settings to match my prusa I3 build. I didn't make any changes to the board settings
- I saved config.h and ran make -f Makefile-ARM. The firmware compiled without errors or warnings
- I installed the bootloader jumper and hit the reset button. Next I executed make program. The firmware uploaded without errors.
- I removed the bootloader jumper and hit the reset button again.

So far, so good. Next up, I attached a serial terminal @ 115200 baud. When I press the reset button on the board, I am greeted with "start\nok\n". Yay! It looks alive.

Next up, I started pronterface, set the baudrate to 115200 and tried to connect to the board.
Pronterface now just sits there, saying "connecting..." but nothing happens until I hit the reset button. The UI comes to life, "start" appears in the terminal log on the right hand side, but none of the buttons do anything.
I tried sending some M commands manually through pronterface, but I get no response. The ATX PSU remains in standby mode. Sending the M command to enable the ATX supply does nothing.
I also tried repetier host, but it doesn't do anything either. It says it's doing a "forced connect", but it can't control the printer either.

I'm kind of stuck now, because I'm not sure how to continue debugging this issue.
I'm not getting any errors or other output. It's just sitting there doing nothing.

- The MCU seems to be up and running because it sends the start message when I hit the reset button
- Serial communication seems to be working fine because the bootloader managed to download the firmware without errors.

I didn't make any changes to the firmware, other then setting the steps per mm settings through configtool.

Can anyone help me out?

---

Einsy Rambo 1.1 + Reprapdiscount LCD 2004 issue (1 reply)

October 20, 2018, 8:24 am

≫ Next: AZSMZ 12864 OLED Wifi (no replies)

≪ Previous: Gen 7 2.0 and teacup-arm not working with pronterface or repetier (no replies)

$

0

0

Hi. I have a fully working reprapdiscount lcd controller (tested on a MKS Gen 1.4).

Now I bought a Einsy Rambo 1.1 board and the LCD only works works (without garbage) when the bootloard loads, or when updating the firmware (also the bootloader shows an animation while updating the firmware), but when the firmware itself loads all that shows on LCD is garbage.

I have tested with Prusa MK3 firmware, and also with Marlin alone firmware (Marlin doesn't even work with their bootloader - shows always garbage on lcd).

Someone here knows how to fix this ?

AZSMZ 12864 OLED Wifi (no replies)

October 23, 2018, 5:36 pm

≫ Next: Laser to Ramps (1 reply)

≪ Previous: Einsy Rambo 1.1 + Reprapdiscount LCD 2004 issue (1 reply)

$

0

0

1.ESP8266 WIFI control (work with ESP3D).
2.1.3"OLED DISPLAY.
3.MicroSD(TF) card slot.
4.buzzer

[github.com]

Laser to Ramps (1 reply)

October 24, 2018, 10:33 am

≫ Next: Marlin Pins, Arduino Pins and Actual pins (2 replies)

≪ Previous: AZSMZ 12864 OLED Wifi (no replies)

$

0

0

Hi there I have a RAMPS 1.4 plus 2, I want to convert my machine as Laser engraving and CNC and 3D printer, my card already has a laser port but I do not mucho about what to do, can anybody help me?

this is my card

[reprap.org]

Marlin Pins, Arduino Pins and Actual pins (2 replies)

October 28, 2018, 7:49 am

≫ Next: Heated bed confusion (2 replies)

≪ Previous: Laser to Ramps (1 reply)

$

0

0

Hello all..

I'm running Klipper, it's a delight, but as Klipper only supports Arduino Pins and actual hardware Pins, so I made a table with Marlin Pins and there Hardware pins.

But some Digital pins and Analog have the same hardware pins, is this correct???

MEGA

Analog I/O
Marlin
|
|-------Hardware
|-------|
v------v
A00 PF0
A01 PF1
A02 PF2
A03 PF3
A04 PF4
A04 PF5
A05 PF6
A06 PF7
A07 PF8
A08 PK0
A09 PK1
A10 PK2
A11 PK3
A12 PK4
A13 PK5
A14 PK6
A15 PK7


Digital I/O
Marlin
|
|-------Hardware
|-------|
|-------|---------Marlin Analog
|-------|---------|
v------v--------v
D00 PE0
D01 PE1
D02 PE4
D03 PE5
D04 PG5
D05 PE3
D06 PH3
D07 PH4
D08 PH5
D09 PH6
D10 PB4
D11 PB5
D12 PB6
D13 PB7
D14 PJ1
D15 PJ0
D16 PH1
D17 PH0
D18 PD3
D19 PD2
D20 PD1
D21 PD0
D22 PA0
D23 PA1
D24 PA2
D25 PA3
D26 PA4
D27 PA5
D28 PA6
D29 PA7
D30 PC7
D31 PC6
D32 PC5
D33 PC4
D34 PC3
D35 PC2
D36 PC1
D37 PC0
D38 PD7
D39 PG2
D40 PG1
D41 PG0
D42 PL7
D43 PL6
D44 PL5
D45 PL4
D46 PL3
D47 PL2
D48 PL1
D49 PL0
D50 PB3
D51 PB2
D52 PB1
D53 PB0
D54 PF0 A00
D55 PF1 A01
D56 PF2 A02
D57 PF3 A03
D58 PF4 A04
D59 PF5 A05
D60 PF6 A06
D61 PF7 A07
D62 PK0 A08
D63 PK1 A09
D64 PK2 A10
D65 PK3 A11
D66 PK4 A12
D67 PK5 A13
D68 PK6 A14
D69 PK7 A15
D70 PG4
D71 PG3
D72 PJ2
D73 PJ3
D74 PJ7
D75 PJ4
D76 PJ5
D77 PJ6
D78 PE2
D79 PE6
D80 PE7
D81 PD4
D82 PD5
D83 PD6
D84 PH2
D85 PH7

Heated bed confusion (2 replies)

November 8, 2018, 4:55 am

≫ Next: MKS GEN_L heater bed not working (4 replies)

≪ Previous: Marlin Pins, Arduino Pins and Actual pins (2 replies)

$

0

0

I'm in process of putting together a Frankenstein printer using a duet Wi-Fi and an AM8 frame.

I have got a 24V psu and have a donor heat bed from a leshp Z1 (A8 6 pin connector style) and a recently purchased MK3 heat bed from eBay.

The eBay one is typical eBay quality and about as thick as a piece of cardboard. But most annoyingly half heats much faster / hotter than the other, putting thermistor on hotter side and setting to 50°c gives me 25°c on other half, putting on colder side and setting to 50°c gives me 110°c on hotter side (measured using infra red thermometer). I'm guessing this is just poor quality and may balance out once up to temp but not sure if I want to risk it as I could get either prints that lift on one half where it started when half of bed is too cold or one side getting insanely hot. (Wiring is correct for 24v, there are a fair few unpopulated solder pads on board, is anything meant to go on those? Labeled R1 etc... So guessing resistor spaces?).

When searching for a 24v heat bed I did see quite a few adverts for boards that look similar to leshp with ++(sensor)-- wiring advertised as 12/24v, can these be run at 24v? Resistance is showing as 1.5ohm.

MKS GEN_L heater bed not working (4 replies)

December 5, 2018, 4:48 pm

≫ Next: Mks Gen L and nothing! (5 replies)

≪ Previous: Heated bed confusion (2 replies)

$

0

0

I modified the electronics on my FLSUN I3 plus to incorporate a different power supply and added an external mosfet to the heater bed output. I also added a economy controller as well as the TFT touch screen.

This worked fine. However during a print today I had a thermal runway message. Now there seems no output from the MKS GEN_L board.

Is there a way to fix this? Do I need to buy a new board :(

I wondered if replacing the board Mosfet or if there were some kind of fuse that might be possible to reset/change. I guess the lowest (nearest to hot bed output) mosfet is the relevant one.

I am not clear what has gone wrong, here is what I find so far:

The bed with 12v applied directly gets warm."
The hotbed output from the gen board seems dead. Not even a LED on the board lights when I do a "PLA preheat bed" from the simple control panel.

I have not tested the external MOSFET yet.

Any ideas?

Any ideas?

Mks Gen L and nothing! (5 replies)

December 4, 2018, 1:50 pm

≫ Next: Hotend never reaches setted temperature (2 replies)

≪ Previous: MKS GEN_L heater bed not working (4 replies)

$

0

0

I've fitted a MKS Gen L board to a CTC Dual and got Matlin 1.1.9 configured and compiled but then nothing I'm stuck again.

When I try to upload the compiled firmware to the board I just get a time out respond from the Arduino IDE which is running on a Win10 box.

I've tried changing Com ports ( only Coms 1 and 3 are offered as choices.) and set the baud rate on the PC to match that of the Marlin install not that it should matter.

As far as I can tell my wiring is good and all the plugs are in the right sockets

There is no sign of life from the board, no lights, no beeps, the only thing running are the fans on the hot ends and I don't think they should be.

The display seems to be RepRap budget item and it's not lighting up at any time even though it's plugged in correctly.

One odd occurrence was that when I tuned the steppers I could not get the voltage over 0.15v which doesn't seem right.

How do I find out if the board is defective? I've checked the board under a magnifying lense and nothing looks as if it's burnt.


Any advice much appreciated.

Thanks All. Aamcle

---

Hotend never reaches setted temperature (2 replies)

December 20, 2018, 8:16 am

≫ Next: AM8 / MKS gen1.4 / TMC2208 stepper motor problems (no replies)

≪ Previous: Mks Gen L and nothing! (5 replies)

$

0

0

I'll try describe my issue if I set the tempurature with pronterface to 200º the temperature never reaches that value for instance it almost target that tempeurate 196/197ª and then start to drop to 184/85º end then start to raise again to the 196/97º. And remains in this loop forever, I'm not able to start any print because tempurate never stabilize.

I've try to configure the PID (M303 E0 S200 C8) with 8, 12, 15 intervals not help the issue continue.

I've try to change heatblock and termistor not help

Its important to refer this behaviour occur in any tempurate if I fix 150º it never reaches 150º it go to 146/147º and then drops again 10/15º and restart the loop. Same thing if I fix the tempurature to 210º.

Also I've tested this in multiple versions of marlin 1.1.8 and 1.1.9.The version of marlin 1.1.8 have worked in the same print in the past.

I'm have not clue about what can cause this issue, maybe its a board malfunctions (mosfet) or a powersupply malfunction.

Somebody can help me on this?

AM8 / MKS gen1.4 / TMC2208 stepper motor problems (no replies)

December 25, 2018, 9:31 am

≫ Next: MKS Gen 1.4 + Full Graphic Smart Controller 12864 LCD -> What wifi module ? (no replies)

≪ Previous: Hotend never reaches setted temperature (2 replies)

$

0

0

Apologies in advance for a lengthy post. I am fairly new to 3d printing.

I recently converted my Anet A8 to the AM8, running only 1 z motor with a timing belt at the top of the frame.

Shortly after upgrading it would run a priming line at the front, but then started printing at the front where it stopped priming at instead of moving to the center. No settings had changed to cause this, it started after a manual bed level. I could find virtually no information on this, troubleshooting steps that helped, or even trying to reflash the firmware, and figured there was something wrong with my board, even though it would auto home, manual bed level, and moving the axis through the LCD with no issues.

So I upgraded to the MKS gen 1.4 controller board, 5 TMC2208's, and a Kingprint 12864 LCD.

I upgraded to the most recent version of Marlin using this guide.

Following this guide @9:12, I set my driver voltages to X/Y=0.9v, Z=1.2v, and E=1.1v.

Now when I auto home through the LCD, the z axis raises up approx 2mm, the x axis moves approx 2mm to the left, the y axis moves forward approx 2mm, then the z axis moves up 2mm again. I am not able to move the z axis below this point once it is set. When I move the axis through the LCD, X+ moves it to the left, Y+ moves the bed forward, and Z+ move the axis up.

Also, my hotend fan does not start when I turn the printer on like it had before I upgraded boards. I have this plugged into the green FAN block listed on the board.

I have scoured everywhere I know where to look, and most of the search results that have come up. I'm honestly lost on where to start to fix this.

MKS Gen 1.4 + Full Graphic Smart Controller 12864 LCD -> What wifi module ? (no replies)

December 25, 2018, 10:31 am

≫ Next: New skr smoothie board (no replies)

≪ Previous: AM8 / MKS gen1.4 / TMC2208 stepper motor problems (no replies)

$

0

0

Hello and Happy Christmas to everyone!

I just started building a 3D printer, gathered most of the parts a few years ago but I never had time to actually start building it, now was the perfect time. I started by drawing (the model I liked was Lautr3k 3D printer, with leadscrews instead of belts) it in Fusion 360 than cut the aluminum profiles, mill some aluminum plates and yesterday I started mounting the electronics, today I fixed some issues I had with drivers overheating and motors thicking every few seconds, now I will draw the last parts I need to mill, the X axis gantry plates, but .. before I'm finishing the hardware parts I want to know something regarding the MKS Gen 1.4 board that I have, I know I can connect a wifi module, but I'm not sure which one, will it work with the cheaper ESP8266 or I need to buy the bigger module MKS HLKWIFI ?

[attachment 108936 mkswifimodules.jpg]

My board is MKS GEN 1.4 + Full Graphic Smart controller (12864 LCD), do I need the MKS-TFT32 / MKS-TFT28 touchscreen controller to use also a wifi module? I mostly want wifi to be able to upload the gcode file from my PC, and not having to move around with a SD card everytime.

Any advices are welcome, thank you.

[attachment 108937 Lautr3k.jpg]

New skr smoothie board (no replies)

December 29, 2018, 7:44 am

≫ Next: Stepper replacement with TMC2208 (1 reply)

≪ Previous: MKS Gen 1.4 + Full Graphic Smart Controller 12864 LCD -> What wifi module ? (no replies)

$

0

0

$18 and you supply the drivers

skr

I like having replacable drivers. Anyone have experience with this board? I did not find any threads searching for skr

Thanks
B

Stepper replacement with TMC2208 (1 reply)

January 2, 2019, 12:54 am

≫ Next: Looking for a controller with native 5V pins for layer fans (2 replies)

≪ Previous: New skr smoothie board (no replies)

$

0

0

Hello Guys

My printer actually has steppers with reference:

42SHDC4047Z-23B the spec I found are:

Main Features:
- Step angle: 1.8 degree
- Number of phases: 2
- Voltage: 3.96V
- Current: 0.9A
- Resistance: 4.4 ohm
- Holding torque: 0.34 Nm
- Operating ambient temperature: -20 Deg.C - 50 Deg.C
- Operating environment humidity: 90 percent
- Axis diameter: 5mm

I have installed TMC2208 with Vref set to 1,2.

I tried to replace original steppers by 42BYGH 1.5A (17HS4401

However when I mound those ones the shaft tries to move but is not working.

I can not understand exactly why?

Can you please give me some idea?.... The driver and the cable is working fine with the original stepper...

Just to bring more info.... My main board is an MKS gen L (12VDc supply) and I have all drivers configured to 16 microsteps.

However for the extruder I have a DRV8825 (also a 16).

On this DRV I have the opposite.... 17HS4401 works perfect and the other model of steppers do the same issue that I explained before (is like trying to turn but just jumps a bit).

Thanks in advance