My Reprap full graphics controller constantly resets itself,The blue lights will flash when this is happening, when it does this the USB is connected. It works fine without the USB. Also I cannot connect to pronterface although I know that the com port is configured right.
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LCD controller resets constantly (no replies)
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Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 probe issue (no replies)
I recently bought a Bigtreetech SKR 1.3 board as a replacement for an Arduino and Ramps 1.4 and am having difficulty setting up the existing Z probe (LJ12A3-4_Z/BY).
The endstop pins appear to have a pullup resistor built in preventing the probe activating . The probe is normally open and 5v upon trigger.
The endstop pin shows 2.40v unconnected and this pulls the normally open probe up showing it as TRIGGERED.
The original Ramps board endstop pin shows 0.48v and shows OPEN.
I am using the existing voltage divider 15k and 10 ohms resistors and have copied everything from Marlin 1.1.9 to 2.0.
The endstop pins appear to have a pullup resistor built in preventing the probe activating . The probe is normally open and 5v upon trigger.
The endstop pin shows 2.40v unconnected and this pulls the normally open probe up showing it as TRIGGERED.
The original Ramps board endstop pin shows 0.48v and shows OPEN.
I am using the existing voltage divider 15k and 10 ohms resistors and have copied everything from Marlin 1.1.9 to 2.0.
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Arduino Mega 2560 R3 (no replies)
Hi All
Asking for some help. I recently purchased an Arduino Mega 2560 R3 with Ramps 1.6 and A4988 drivers.
When It arrived I flashed the firmware and test the Controller and Ramps board with the A4988, all worked.
When I installed it into my CNC I forgot and powered it on with 24V supply thru the Ramps controller with out removing D1 diode.
To say hte lease I fried the onboard 5V regulator. and maybe other parts as well. I have reordered the full set of boards.
Now for my questions?
Is there a single program that I can use to test All 54 (15 provide PWM output) with to check the status of the Arduino, it could be as simple as turning on an LED or spinning a fan.
And also test the 16 Analog Input Pins. I have tested the Arduino and it will still let me upland a program. and the Ramps Smart discount controller function.
these are IO pins Then I need to also test for a simple input the to test All 54 that will allow input.
If needed and I have to I will rewrite the Program for every Port though was hoping that a program was written where I could select from 0ne of the 54 output ports via the rotary encoder.
these are IO pins Then I need to also test for a simple input the to test All 16 that will allow input.
Though I can not get the Stepper motors to turn now. And would like to know if I should throw it away or use it for a Arduino test controller for experimenting with.
I have ordered the AM1117 regulator chip have tested the fuses, D9 (fan), D10 (hotend) work.
All suggestions welcome
Asking for some help. I recently purchased an Arduino Mega 2560 R3 with Ramps 1.6 and A4988 drivers.
When It arrived I flashed the firmware and test the Controller and Ramps board with the A4988, all worked.
When I installed it into my CNC I forgot and powered it on with 24V supply thru the Ramps controller with out removing D1 diode.
To say hte lease I fried the onboard 5V regulator. and maybe other parts as well. I have reordered the full set of boards.
Now for my questions?
Is there a single program that I can use to test All 54 (15 provide PWM output) with to check the status of the Arduino, it could be as simple as turning on an LED or spinning a fan.
And also test the 16 Analog Input Pins. I have tested the Arduino and it will still let me upland a program. and the Ramps Smart discount controller function.
these are IO pins Then I need to also test for a simple input the to test All 54 that will allow input.
If needed and I have to I will rewrite the Program for every Port though was hoping that a program was written where I could select from 0ne of the 54 output ports via the rotary encoder.
these are IO pins Then I need to also test for a simple input the to test All 16 that will allow input.
Though I can not get the Stepper motors to turn now. And would like to know if I should throw it away or use it for a Arduino test controller for experimenting with.
I have ordered the AM1117 regulator chip have tested the fuses, D9 (fan), D10 (hotend) work.
All suggestions welcome
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BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 + Full Graphics Display constantly resets (no replies)
I just brought up a BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 using Marlin bugfix-2.0.x and everything seems to work correctly using Pronterface on my HyperCube. The bed & extruder heat correctly and everything moves and homes as it should. Instead of moving over the A4988 drivers from the existing Ramps 1.4 board I installed TMC2208 v3.0 uart drivers to quiet things down. When I plug in the ReprapDiscount Full Graphics Display it powers up but has 2 areas of "garbage" which is then followed by the splash screen and then the system appears to reset based on the fact Pronterface loses its connection and the splash screen shows up again.
I vaguely remember reading about some conflict with the TMC2208 and the display but failed to bookmark it. The video on YouTube by BIGTREETECH seems to indicate it should work. I'm fairly certain I caught all the necessary changes to implement the display so not sure what's going on here other than a missed config change or a HW conflict.
I'm not at home at the moment or I'd post the config changes. I do know the display works as it was running fine on the Ramps 1.4 and Marlin 1.x.
I vaguely remember reading about some conflict with the TMC2208 and the display but failed to bookmark it. The video on YouTube by BIGTREETECH seems to indicate it should work. I'm fairly certain I caught all the necessary changes to implement the display so not sure what's going on here other than a missed config change or a HW conflict.
I'm not at home at the moment or I'd post the config changes. I do know the display works as it was running fine on the Ramps 1.4 and Marlin 1.x.
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LCD12864 started dimming and showing garbage, and now nothing! (3 replies)
Hello,
I have assembled my 3D Printer and was working and printing fine with it for a few months, until recently my LCD 12864 contrast was getting dimmer and dimmer with time (over a period of 2 weeks), today it started showing garbage and display is barely seen, until it finally gave up and now it just lights up without any display, only the background light.
i'm using ramps 1.4 with Arduino Mega 2560 R3
regulator on Mega is getting 12v and giving 5v (and is not heating up)
regulator on the back of my LCD is getting 4.1v and giving 3.7v (is this right?)
any ideas on what might have caused this? and how to fix it.
I have a project to finish and I need to print without a pc. (oh by the way, when i plug the usb into a laptop, it runs perfectly, with perfect contrast, I don't think the length of the cables is an issue here), but I mainly rely on printing from SD Card, that's why I need to work from my LCD menu.
I have assembled my 3D Printer and was working and printing fine with it for a few months, until recently my LCD 12864 contrast was getting dimmer and dimmer with time (over a period of 2 weeks), today it started showing garbage and display is barely seen, until it finally gave up and now it just lights up without any display, only the background light.
i'm using ramps 1.4 with Arduino Mega 2560 R3
regulator on Mega is getting 12v and giving 5v (and is not heating up)
regulator on the back of my LCD is getting 4.1v and giving 3.7v (is this right?)
any ideas on what might have caused this? and how to fix it.
I have a project to finish and I need to print without a pc. (oh by the way, when i plug the usb into a laptop, it runs perfectly, with perfect contrast, I don't think the length of the cables is an issue here), but I mainly rely on printing from SD Card, that's why I need to work from my LCD menu.
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MKS / uno for simple extrusion on signal (1 reply)
I'm trying to convert a 3D printer into an end effector for a robot.
Basically I want to control the following based on a digital output from the robot controller:
would you guys recommend i modify the marlin fw and the mks gen 1.3 board to accomplish this?
or create a new sketch on a arduino uno?
What i want:
robot controller outputs digital signal A -> nozzle heats up to predefined temperature and maintains it.
robot controller outputs digital signal B -> motor start extruding at predifined speed
signal B stop - > motor stops extruding
signal A stops -> nozzle stops heating/stops maintaining temperature.
Basically I want to control the following based on a digital output from the robot controller:
- nozzle heating
- extrusion
would you guys recommend i modify the marlin fw and the mks gen 1.3 board to accomplish this?
or create a new sketch on a arduino uno?
What i want:
robot controller outputs digital signal A -> nozzle heats up to predefined temperature and maintains it.
robot controller outputs digital signal B -> motor start extruding at predifined speed
signal B stop - > motor stops extruding
signal A stops -> nozzle stops heating/stops maintaining temperature.
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Re-ARM+RAMPS+Marlin sensor analog input pins (2 replies)
I'm setting up my 3D printer for 4 nozzle, 4 stepper color print. My setup is Re-ARM+RAMPS 1.5+Marlin 2.0 (debug) in EEB configuration with two additional stepper motors using a motor extender card. T0, T1, T2 (A0-A2) analog inputs as heater temperature sensors work fine. However, none of the other pins labelled as analog input capable work. I've disable the LCD for the pins on that pin cluster.
I set the cold extrusion protection down to 10 deg (default 50) so the motors work at room temperature is the assigned thermistor is working, or a cold extrusion error if the thermistor is not.
What am I missing?
Here is the Re-ARM+RAMPS documentation.
A0 0 // A0 (T0) - (67)
A1 1 // A1 (T1) - (68)
A2 2 // A2 (T2) - (69)
A3 3 // A3 - (63) - J5-3 & AUX-2
A4 4 // A4 - (37) - BUZZER_PIN
A5 5 // A5 - (49) - SD_DETECT_PIN
A6 6 // A6 - ( 0) - RXD0 - J4-4 & AUX-1
A7 7 // A7 - ( 1) - TXD0 - J4-5 & AUX-1
I set the cold extrusion protection down to 10 deg (default 50) so the motors work at room temperature is the assigned thermistor is working, or a cold extrusion error if the thermistor is not.
What am I missing?
Here is the Re-ARM+RAMPS documentation.
A0 0 // A0 (T0) - (67)
A1 1 // A1 (T1) - (68)
A2 2 // A2 (T2) - (69)
A3 3 // A3 - (63) - J5-3 & AUX-2
A4 4 // A4 - (37) - BUZZER_PIN
A5 5 // A5 - (49) - SD_DETECT_PIN
A6 6 // A6 - ( 0) - RXD0 - J4-4 & AUX-1
A7 7 // A7 - ( 1) - TXD0 - J4-5 & AUX-1
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BLTouch V3 Red Blinking on power up fix... (no replies)
Hello all,
Hope this will fit in this forum.
I've had issues with my new BLtouch not performing the self test upon power up.Instead it steadily blinks red but it still will function fine as far as bed leveling goes.
Hunting through the forums, I did not find a lot of info, other then check the wiring and it is defective...
Then I found info at Antclabs that proved helpful..
Quote..
2) if the red LED in BLTOUCH flashes at 80% duty right after the 3D printer is switched on, please release it with S60 or S160.
It's a message to check Wiring because your 3D printer board is already sending a control signal to BLTouch before BLTouch power is turned on. Don't worry, your 3D printer and BLTouch work perfectly even if the Red LED flashes at 80% duty.
Unquote..
This was exactly the scenario I was having.I suspected that the command signal pin may be"floating" during boot of my Rumb+ board.
Installing a pull-down resistor from the command pin to ground solved the issue for me (4K3 Ohms).
Perhaps this info will help others..
Bart
Hope this will fit in this forum.
I've had issues with my new BLtouch not performing the self test upon power up.Instead it steadily blinks red but it still will function fine as far as bed leveling goes.
Hunting through the forums, I did not find a lot of info, other then check the wiring and it is defective...
Then I found info at Antclabs that proved helpful..
Quote..
2) if the red LED in BLTOUCH flashes at 80% duty right after the 3D printer is switched on, please release it with S60 or S160.
It's a message to check Wiring because your 3D printer board is already sending a control signal to BLTouch before BLTouch power is turned on. Don't worry, your 3D printer and BLTouch work perfectly even if the Red LED flashes at 80% duty.
Unquote..
This was exactly the scenario I was having.I suspected that the command signal pin may be"floating" during boot of my Rumb+ board.
Installing a pull-down resistor from the command pin to ground solved the issue for me (4K3 Ohms).
Perhaps this info will help others..
Bart
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Re-Arm Ramps 1.4 Laser Control (no replies)
Setup
Re-Arm Board
Ramps 1.4 Shield
4W Laser Module
CoreXY
Smothieware
# Laser module configuration
laser_module_enable true # Whether to activate the laser module at all. All configuration is ignored if false.
laser_module_pin 2.7 # this pin will be PWMed to control the laser
laser_module_max_power 0.99 # this is the maximum duty cycle that will be applied to the laser
laser_module_tickle_power 0.0 # this duty cycle will be used for travel moves to keep the laser active without actually burning
But D8 on the Ramps stays at 12v does not very from 0v-5v
What am I doing wrong
Re-Arm Board
Ramps 1.4 Shield
4W Laser Module
CoreXY
Smothieware
# Laser module configuration
laser_module_enable true # Whether to activate the laser module at all. All configuration is ignored if false.
laser_module_pin 2.7 # this pin will be PWMed to control the laser
laser_module_max_power 0.99 # this is the maximum duty cycle that will be applied to the laser
laser_module_tickle_power 0.0 # this duty cycle will be used for travel moves to keep the laser active without actually burning
But D8 on the Ramps stays at 12v does not very from 0v-5v
What am I doing wrong
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SKR v1.3 with the Anet 12864 LCD display (will it ever work?) (1 reply)
I'm trying to get the SKR V1.3 up and running with Marlin 2.0 and the Anet version of the 12864 (ReprapDiscount Full Graphics Display) with no luck so far. I know that the Anet version of the 12864 is nearly identical to the ReprapDiscount Full Graphics Display with the exceptions that the pin defintions are different. I don't have a ReprapDiscount Full Graphics Display to test so I'm just working with the Anet version. I have scoured the web for hints and have tried several solutions but nothing has worked.
What works:
1) The button in the encoder (I know because the beeper beeps when I push it)
2) The beeper (I know because of 1)
3) The backlight on the LCD lights up blue
This suggests that I have at least 4 pins connected & configured properly (5v, GND, BEEPER_PIN, and BTN_ENC).
What doesn't work:
1) No images are displayed on the screen. As a result, I can't tell if any other functions work.
This suggests that I don't have serial communication with the LCD module working correctly.
I'll list what I've done so far later in this post but I want to first ask for verification of a few things:
1) The LPS1768 is a 3.3v MCU and the 12864 (using the ST7920 LCD module) is a 5v system. As a result, I should need level translators on the signals that move data to the LCD. The ST7920 datasheet shows the min value for a logic high input is 0.7 * Vdd which would be 3.5v.
2) All of the signals I need to make the 12864 work (with the exception of the reset button) are on the LCD (not J3) ribbon cable so I'm focusing on that cable only right now. The reset button is connected via the J3 ribbon cable pin 7.
3) The ST7920 is operated in serial mode and the CLK is the Marlin signal LCD_PINS_D4, the DATA is Marlin signal LCD_PINS_ENABLE, and the CS is signal LCD_PINS_RS.
4) The three signals, plus 5v and GND are all that's needed to communicate with the LCD.
I build the latest version of Marlin-bugfix-2.0.x with
I verified the LPC1768 port numbers from the comment in the .h file and the SKR v1.3 schematic. The fact that the encoder button works and the beeper works tell me that I'm building the code that I want to build.
I put a 'scope on the CS, CLK, and DATA lines to observe what's going on after reset and there is almost no activity. The CLK signal does go to about 2v for around 2 seconds and then back to zero. The CS signal stays high and the DATA signal stays low. I have a level converter circuit on all three lines and I'm 'scoping them on the LCD module (5v) side.
The SKR V1.3 document says that the 12864 LCD is supported and the youTube video shows them enabling it in the Marlin Configuration.h file in VSCode, but there is no other information I can find. I don't know if the 3.3v vs 5v logic is an ignored issue or not.
What I need help with is verifying the assumptions I stated above and suggestions on where to go next or what I'm doing wrong.
What works:
1) The button in the encoder (I know because the beeper beeps when I push it)
2) The beeper (I know because of 1)
3) The backlight on the LCD lights up blue
This suggests that I have at least 4 pins connected & configured properly (5v, GND, BEEPER_PIN, and BTN_ENC).
What doesn't work:
1) No images are displayed on the screen. As a result, I can't tell if any other functions work.
This suggests that I don't have serial communication with the LCD module working correctly.
I'll list what I've done so far later in this post but I want to first ask for verification of a few things:
1) The LPS1768 is a 3.3v MCU and the 12864 (using the ST7920 LCD module) is a 5v system. As a result, I should need level translators on the signals that move data to the LCD. The ST7920 datasheet shows the min value for a logic high input is 0.7 * Vdd which would be 3.5v.
2) All of the signals I need to make the 12864 work (with the exception of the reset button) are on the LCD (not J3) ribbon cable so I'm focusing on that cable only right now. The reset button is connected via the J3 ribbon cable pin 7.
3) The ST7920 is operated in serial mode and the CLK is the Marlin signal LCD_PINS_D4, the DATA is Marlin signal LCD_PINS_ENABLE, and the CS is signal LCD_PINS_RS.
4) The three signals, plus 5v and GND are all that's needed to communicate with the LCD.
I build the latest version of Marlin-bugfix-2.0.x with
#define ANET_FULL_GRAPHICS_LCDin Configuration.h and the following added to pins_BIGTREE_SKR_C1.3.h:
#if ENABLED(ANET_FULL_GRAPHICS_LCD)
#undef BTN_EN1
#undef BTN_EN2
#undef BTN_ENC
#undef BEEPER_PIN
#undef LCD_PINS_D4
#undef LCD_PINS_ENABLE
#undef LCD_PINS_RS
#undef ST7920_DELAY_1
#undef ST7920_DELAY_2
#undef ST7920_DELAY_3
#define BTN_EN1 P1_20
#define BTN_EN2 P1_22
#define BTN_ENC P1_18
#define BEEPER_PIN P1_30
#define LCD_PINS_D4 P0_28
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE P1_21
#define LCD_PINS_RS P1_23
#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(0)
#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(63)
#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(125)
#define STD_ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 4
#define STD_ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 1
#endif
I verified the LPC1768 port numbers from the comment in the .h file and the SKR v1.3 schematic. The fact that the encoder button works and the beeper works tell me that I'm building the code that I want to build.
I put a 'scope on the CS, CLK, and DATA lines to observe what's going on after reset and there is almost no activity. The CLK signal does go to about 2v for around 2 seconds and then back to zero. The CS signal stays high and the DATA signal stays low. I have a level converter circuit on all three lines and I'm 'scoping them on the LCD module (5v) side.
The SKR V1.3 document says that the 12864 LCD is supported and the youTube video shows them enabling it in the Marlin Configuration.h file in VSCode, but there is no other information I can find. I don't know if the 3.3v vs 5v logic is an ignored issue or not.
What I need help with is verifying the assumptions I stated above and suggestions on where to go next or what I'm doing wrong.
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How to use MKS Sbase 1.3 with LCD 128x64? (no replies)
Hello everyone. I am using a CR-10, unmodified except dual Z and MKS Sbase 1.3. The CR-10 came with a 128x64 lcd (pic attached). The thing is, it has only one plug (EXP3) which worked perfectly with the Melzi board which came with the CR-10. How do I use it with the MKS Sbase 1.3? Most of the things I could find online are of 2 plugs (EXP 1 and EXP 2). Thanks.
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DIY miniature OLED controller with SPI interface. (no replies)
Hi Guys,
I was originally inspired by Enifs post about a DIY OLED controller working off I2C.
I have an Ender3 running off a MKS GEN L motherboard with the TFT32 touch screen interface but i liked the original controller and wanted to bring it back but as a much smaller OLED version. Enifs post was almost perfect, i dont want the SD card reader or a beeper, just the encoder and a screen but the issue is that there are no I2C pin headers on the GEN L so i needed to find another solution.
MKS offer an OLED controller but it has an SD card reader, is a little more bulky than i had wanted and i was having issues finding where to buy it from so i started looking in to this as a DIY build project.
[attachment 112384 Controller.jpg]
Parts list.
[www.ebay.co.uk]
[attachment 112378 encoder.JPG]
[www.amazon.co.uk]
[attachment 112379 OLED.JPG]
Printed enclosure.
[attachment 112380 enclosure.JPG]
6 M3 bolts
6 M3 threaded inserts
10 pin EXT1 cable
Assemble the wiring loom as follows.
[attachment 112383 Wiring.jpg]
NOTE:
My encoder had 3 resistors soldered on to the rear, bridging between the CLK pin and the rotation direction pins. I removed the top and bottom one to resolve the unusual encoder behaviour.
Perhaps there is a better encoder to use out there but i wanted one pre-mounted to a board and i got it working without too much issue.
MARLIN.
*configuration.h
Define MKS_12864OLED as your controller
*Pins_RAMPS.h (may vary for your board)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)
#define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init
#define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init
// DOGM SPI LCD Support
#define DOGLCD_CS 16
#define DOGLCD_MOSI 17
#define DOGLCD_SCK 23
#define DOGLCD_A0 LCD_PINS_DC
#else
#define LCD_PINS_RS 16
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27
#endif
#define LCD_PINS_D7 29 CHANGE TO 33
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#if ENABLED(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER)
#define BEEPER_PIN 37 CHANGE TO 31
#if ENABLED(CR10_STOCKDISPLAY)
#define BTN_EN1 17
#define BTN_EN2 23
#else
#define BTN_EN1 31 CHANGE TO 37
#define BTN_EN2 33 CHANGE TO 29
#endif
#define BTN_ENC 35
#define SD_DETECT_PIN 49
#define KILL_PIN 41
I was originally inspired by Enifs post about a DIY OLED controller working off I2C.
I have an Ender3 running off a MKS GEN L motherboard with the TFT32 touch screen interface but i liked the original controller and wanted to bring it back but as a much smaller OLED version. Enifs post was almost perfect, i dont want the SD card reader or a beeper, just the encoder and a screen but the issue is that there are no I2C pin headers on the GEN L so i needed to find another solution.
MKS offer an OLED controller but it has an SD card reader, is a little more bulky than i had wanted and i was having issues finding where to buy it from so i started looking in to this as a DIY build project.
[attachment 112384 Controller.jpg]
Parts list.
[www.ebay.co.uk]
[attachment 112378 encoder.JPG]
[www.amazon.co.uk]
[attachment 112379 OLED.JPG]
Printed enclosure.
[attachment 112380 enclosure.JPG]
6 M3 bolts
6 M3 threaded inserts
10 pin EXT1 cable
Assemble the wiring loom as follows.
[attachment 112383 Wiring.jpg]
NOTE:
My encoder had 3 resistors soldered on to the rear, bridging between the CLK pin and the rotation direction pins. I removed the top and bottom one to resolve the unusual encoder behaviour.
Perhaps there is a better encoder to use out there but i wanted one pre-mounted to a board and i got it working without too much issue.
MARLIN.
*configuration.h
Define MKS_12864OLED as your controller
*Pins_RAMPS.h (may vary for your board)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#if ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED) || ENABLED(MKS_12864OLED_SSD1306)
#define LCD_PINS_DC 25 // Set as output on init
#define LCD_PINS_RS 27 // Pull low for 1s to init
// DOGM SPI LCD Support
#define DOGLCD_CS 16
#define DOGLCD_MOSI 17
#define DOGLCD_SCK 23
#define DOGLCD_A0 LCD_PINS_DC
#else
#define LCD_PINS_RS 16
#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 17
#define LCD_PINS_D4 23
#define LCD_PINS_D5 25
#define LCD_PINS_D6 27
#endif
#define LCD_PINS_D7 29 CHANGE TO 33
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#if ENABLED(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER)
#define BEEPER_PIN 37 CHANGE TO 31
#if ENABLED(CR10_STOCKDISPLAY)
#define BTN_EN1 17
#define BTN_EN2 23
#else
#define BTN_EN1 31 CHANGE TO 37
#define BTN_EN2 33 CHANGE TO 29
#endif
#define BTN_ENC 35
#define SD_DETECT_PIN 49
#define KILL_PIN 41
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Upload to the board failed after LCD enabled (2 replies)
Hi Folks,
I recently brought BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER and clicked upload button but faced
an error that say
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
buttons
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'
else wait_for_unclick = false;
^~~~
*** [.pio\build\LPC1768\src\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1
I am not sure what above mean but can anyone shed light to why I am recieving these errors?
I recently brought BigTreeTech SKR V1.3 and uncommented REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER and clicked upload button but faced
an error that say
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: error: 'touch_buttons' was not declared in this scope
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:767:9: note: suggested alternative: 'buttons'
if (touch_buttons) {
^~~~~~~~~~~~~
buttons
Marlin\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp:805:5: error: 'else' without a previous 'if'
else wait_for_unclick = false;
^~~~
*** [.pio\build\LPC1768\src\src\lcd\ultralcd.cpp.o] Error 1
I am not sure what above mean but can anyone shed light to why I am recieving these errors?
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SPI interference - Display artifacts (1 reply)
Hey everyone,
I'm trying to add a graphic LCD to my printer (Hypercube Evo + RADDS). It's a 128x64 ST7565 display. I've got it pretty much running on a test setup (Arduino Due + breadboard + display) but I'm already experiencing some issues when I touch/move the jumper wires or if they're too close together. Then the display freezes, shifts some lines or displays some weird artifacts or even stops working entirely. I'm using software SPI btw.
So I'm quite sure these are some interference issues between the wires and I'm not confident installing the display into my printer because the wires will be a bit longer and definitely close together. My question now is what can I do to avoid this? Do I need a shielded cable? Can I lower the speed for the software SPI in Marlin? Or will actually installing it help?
I'm trying to add a graphic LCD to my printer (Hypercube Evo + RADDS). It's a 128x64 ST7565 display. I've got it pretty much running on a test setup (Arduino Due + breadboard + display) but I'm already experiencing some issues when I touch/move the jumper wires or if they're too close together. Then the display freezes, shifts some lines or displays some weird artifacts or even stops working entirely. I'm using software SPI btw.
So I'm quite sure these are some interference issues between the wires and I'm not confident installing the display into my printer because the wires will be a bit longer and definitely close together. My question now is what can I do to avoid this? Do I need a shielded cable? Can I lower the speed for the software SPI in Marlin? Or will actually installing it help?
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BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 doesn't have enough voltage for endstop (no replies)
I started to assemble my delta printer today and only find out that the sense voltage on X+ X- and Y- endstops are only about 3.1v where the Y+ Z- and Z+ are 3.3V
so my X is always TRIGGERED or OPEN (depends on the marlin config) and it won't change.
I tried to replace the 180 ohm resistor on the optical endstop with a 100 ohm and I also tried to add a 220 ohm resistor on top of 180 ohm per the suggestion in a facebook group,
but none of them worked, and now I am clueless what approach I can still try.
I can't be the only one that having the problem, so I am wondering anything I did wrong?
appreciate for any input.
so my X is always TRIGGERED or OPEN (depends on the marlin config) and it won't change.
I tried to replace the 180 ohm resistor on the optical endstop with a 100 ohm and I also tried to add a 220 ohm resistor on top of 180 ohm per the suggestion in a facebook group,
but none of them worked, and now I am clueless what approach I can still try.
I can't be the only one that having the problem, so I am wondering anything I did wrong?
appreciate for any input.
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Bed Leveling on CNC Router project using Marlin/MKS Gen L V1.0 Board (no replies)
My problem is that I am trying to setup mesh bed leveling on my Root3Lite, but because my Z Minimum is set at the top of the Z axis, whenever I try and start the leveling process, the first thing that happens is the Z axis tries to go upwards (against the Z Endstop switch) and the whole thing comes to a shuddering halt!
This because conventionally, a CNC machine has its zero at the top of the Z travel (which is where I have my Z MIN endstop wired) - whereas a 3D printer has its Zero approx 0.2mm above the printing surface. To be honest, I don’t even have a Z MAX endstop (because that is the end I am cutting through).
Does anybody know how to stop the upward movement of the Z axis in Marlin prior to the actual execution of the bed level routine? As I do a G28 homing prior to running the bed leveling command, the Z axis is already sitting at its Zero point already, and although I have tried to find the unwanted negative movement command by searching through the Marlin 1.1.X. firmware, I have not been able to locate it.
Despite the awful noise of the toothed belt jumping teeth on the sprockets, the bed level routine does work as it should, although I have not made a complete mesh map up until now - at least until I can sort this problem out!
Any help or advice which may be given would be greatly appreciated..............
This because conventionally, a CNC machine has its zero at the top of the Z travel (which is where I have my Z MIN endstop wired) - whereas a 3D printer has its Zero approx 0.2mm above the printing surface. To be honest, I don’t even have a Z MAX endstop (because that is the end I am cutting through).
Does anybody know how to stop the upward movement of the Z axis in Marlin prior to the actual execution of the bed level routine? As I do a G28 homing prior to running the bed leveling command, the Z axis is already sitting at its Zero point already, and although I have tried to find the unwanted negative movement command by searching through the Marlin 1.1.X. firmware, I have not been able to locate it.
Despite the awful noise of the toothed belt jumping teeth on the sprockets, the bed level routine does work as it should, although I have not made a complete mesh map up until now - at least until I can sort this problem out!
Any help or advice which may be given would be greatly appreciated..............
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Keyestudio MKS Base 1.4 3D Pinbelegung für die X-Achse :S (1 reply)
Hallo, mein Name ist Eckhard und ich bin Laie was 3D-Drucker anbelangt. Ich habe ein Vellermann K8200 mit dem Keyestudio MKS Base 3D ausgerüstet.
Mein Problem ist: Ich bekomme die X-Achse nicht zum laufen.
Verkablung ist OK- Test mit Anschluss an Y= Achse Bewegt sich.
Ich nutze Maline 2.0 und als Board habe ich das MKS_BASE_14 angegeben.
Schaue ich mir die Pin belegung an so fällt auf das Pin 2 zweimal vergeben ist.
Es scheint deswegen nur an der Ansteuerung zu liegen.
Weis jemand welche Pins für X genutzt werden?
Danke für eure Hilfe.
Mein Problem ist: Ich bekomme die X-Achse nicht zum laufen.
Verkablung ist OK- Test mit Anschluss an Y= Achse Bewegt sich.
Ich nutze Maline 2.0 und als Board habe ich das MKS_BASE_14 angegeben.
Schaue ich mir die Pin belegung an so fällt auf das Pin 2 zweimal vergeben ist.
Es scheint deswegen nur an der Ansteuerung zu liegen.
Weis jemand welche Pins für X genutzt werden?
Danke für eure Hilfe.
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Do you recognise this board? (4 replies)
Picture links:
Front
Back
CPU Close Up
There are no markings anywhere on the board front or back.
It's the stock board in my MonoPrice MP10 Mini
I'm wondering if it would be easy enough to replace with something better? 32 bit? Marlin/Duet?
Any recommendations for something to replace this?
Much thanks in advance for your suggestions!
Jonty
Front
Back
CPU Close Up
There are no markings anywhere on the board front or back.
It's the stock board in my MonoPrice MP10 Mini
I'm wondering if it would be easy enough to replace with something better? 32 bit? Marlin/Duet?
Any recommendations for something to replace this?
Much thanks in advance for your suggestions!
Jonty
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BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 - Reuse Unused PINS (no replies)
The SKR v1.3 is an excellent 32Bits card, but lacks of multipourpose pins.
As the GPIO of LPC1768 is configurable, I would like to know if is it possible to reuse some unused pins from the card to other purposes than the original ones.
Thes connector could be the unused X/Y/Z min/max endstops, TH1, etc.
Saldy the UART pins for 2208 drivers are inaccesible (in case you have old dir/step drivers).
Edit: attached a list of pins and their functions (from [mbed.org])
I'm trying to use some of these pins as PWM Out for Case Light and HB (via external mosfet).
Cheers!
ePoxi
As the GPIO of LPC1768 is configurable, I would like to know if is it possible to reuse some unused pins from the card to other purposes than the original ones.
Thes connector could be the unused X/Y/Z min/max endstops, TH1, etc.
Saldy the UART pins for 2208 drivers are inaccesible (in case you have old dir/step drivers).
Edit: attached a list of pins and their functions (from [mbed.org])
I'm trying to use some of these pins as PWM Out for Case Light and HB (via external mosfet).
Cheers!
ePoxi
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Re-ARM to Replace TriGorilla? (no replies)
Long story short, I need to upgrade the control board in my Anycubic Linear Plus from the original TriGorilla to something with more brain power. That little processor just can't handle all the delta kinematic calculations. I've been 3D printing for a while, but I've never swapped a stock control board for an upgrade before. I'm OK with dealing with firmware, but I'm discovering there are more factors to consider than I originally bargained for.
I've seen a handful of posts about the Re-ARM controller. The description on Panucatt's storefront describes it as a "plug in replacement" for a Mega board. This is where I've started to either overthink or underthink the situation. It can't be that easy, can it? The TriGorilla board is effectively a 2560, but the Re-ARM is a 32-bit processor with ARM architecture. What would the process of making this switch actually look like? Also, I've heard mixed things about Smoothieware, that it's no longer in active development and that there are better options, etc. Any advice on this route? The price makes it very attractive given that the printer kit was only $190 itself.
Alternately, the Duet 2 Maestro looks pretty nice. It's a bit more expensive but not terribly so.
Are there any obvious options I'm overlooking? The challenge is to strike a balance of cost and ease of firmware configuration.
I've seen a handful of posts about the Re-ARM controller. The description on Panucatt's storefront describes it as a "plug in replacement" for a Mega board. This is where I've started to either overthink or underthink the situation. It can't be that easy, can it? The TriGorilla board is effectively a 2560, but the Re-ARM is a 32-bit processor with ARM architecture. What would the process of making this switch actually look like? Also, I've heard mixed things about Smoothieware, that it's no longer in active development and that there are better options, etc. Any advice on this route? The price makes it very attractive given that the printer kit was only $190 itself.
Alternately, the Duet 2 Maestro looks pretty nice. It's a bit more expensive but not terribly so.
Are there any obvious options I'm overlooking? The challenge is to strike a balance of cost and ease of firmware configuration.
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