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CL57T closed loop driver with MKS Sbase 1.3 board not working ? (3 replies)

October 2, 2019, 6:58 am
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Dear Community

I have a serious problem which I can not solve.
I have bought a closed loop driver CL57T and stepper motor with sensor/decoder for my huge Delta printer.
All is connected as described on smoothieboard resources and as described from stepperonline.

Each part is working perfectly.

First, the combination of driver and motor works fine! I can drive the stepper without any problem via the driver and it holds perfect position. All is moving, values and datas a re fine and as I can say correct.
But second, the combination of my MKS Sbase controller board and the CL57T driver ist not working. I have all pins connected as described in smoothieboard wiki and in the manual from stepperonline.

But it seems there is no connection. The steppers are blocking from the start, sometimes after a while they are opening the rotor and the skates can be moved easily and fine, they are not blocked anymore, but can not set back in action by repetier Host etc….

5Volt are connected to the 5Volt pins(4,59 Volt) of the endstop pins.

That leads me to the assumption that there is a uncorrect or no communication between the controller board and the driver.
- How can I find those problems
- Maybe you know specificly the problem here. Would be perfect, but I guess thats more a dream.

Pics of the driver and board attached.

[attachment 112831 image.jpg]
[attachment 112832 IMG_20191001_071734.jpg]
[attachment 112833 IMG_20191001_072002.jpg]
[attachment 112834 IMG_20191001_072155.jpg]
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Blowing fuses on two SKR boards. Need some help (2 replies)

October 2, 2019, 12:59 pm
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OK still working on this issue which I had with my first SKR 1.3. Bought another board to make sure I had a working one. Works fine with the jumpers set to USB and the Pi hooked up normally with a USB cable and to a regular Pi power supply. I can connect to the SKR and send Gcode commands and get responses. Powered everything down and changed the jumper to internal, hooked up my PI via a separate power supply and powered it up and as soon as I turn on the power supply that is connected to the SKR the 10A fuse blows. I had a spare fuse and tried it again and blew another one. My power supply that is connected to the SKR is a server power supply that is putting out 12.4 volts and is capable of putting out 52 amps. It is my understanding that the SKR can handle up to 24v as I was worried that the 12.4v that was being supplied by the server power supply. Any ideas or thoughts on this issue. I'm at a loss on where to go now.
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Trouble with solid state relay closing for mains voltage bed (no replies)

October 20, 2019, 9:10 pm
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I purchased a solid state relay to switch 240V silicone heating pad, but I get no continuity when its receiving power (it doesnt close).

I guessed it was a dud, but a replacement (different brand) also doesnt close when it receives power. I have tried WITH the load to see if maybe it required that to latch closed or something weird but no luck.

Any ideas why? Its 24V control side, correct polarity everywhere etc etc. LED lights up but no closed circuit (and therefore no heating of the bed). Eventually Marlin firmware shuts down from a temp error (due to no increase in bed temp after a set amount of time).

See this link [imgur.com] for how I have wired them up, LED on but no continuity whatsoever on the output side. Tried12V and 24V.

Did I get two duds in a row? Neither was ever put under any load, so no possibility of it "overheating" at any stage or subject to any other risk that would typically cause a failure. Brand new, both of them. Any ideas? Thanks a lot
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Bigtree Tech SKR 1.3 Fan configuration (no replies)

October 27, 2019, 10:16 pm
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I'm running a SKR1.3 with Marlin 2.x, I can't seem to get the part cooling fan configured correctly. I have a PWM mosfet connected to pin 1.26 as the trigger.

In my configuration_adv.h file, I have the Part cooling fan set as

#define FANMUX0_PIN P1_26 //-1
#define FANMUX1_PIN -1
#define FANMUX2_PIN -1

However when you run M43, the pin debugging commad you see that it does not know that the pin has that assignment. I have no way of controlling the fan. the fan does come on but it's not controlled. I need to slow it down. As it's too fast and cooling the heater block too much.

Recv: PIN: 1.26 Output = 0
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Re: www.real-pcb.com. PCB & stencil comments. $15.00 for a laser cut stencil. (-1 replies)

October 30, 2019, 11:15 pm
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Re: www.real-pcb.com. PCB & stencil comments. $15.00 for a laser cut stencil. (-1 replies)

October 30, 2019, 11:15 pm
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Since they spam, and that is all this is, they 'people' will not be getting my business and you should avoid them also. DO NOT REWARD BAD BEHAVIOUR
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TMC2209 v2 (Watterott) low VREF (1 reply)

October 30, 2019, 2:18 pm
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Hi,

I just reveived one TMC2209 v2 from watterott and wanted to use and configure it in legacy mode for my MKS Gen L Ender 3 Pro (extruder driver).


If I try to set VREF, i can only set values from 0 to 0.09 V. Yes, I measured on the correct pin (middle one), and yes, 24 V are on the machine.

Why isn't the VREF in normal ranges?
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Reprogram or replace? (3 replies)

November 1, 2019, 5:09 am
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Hi, I’m really a beginner at 3D printing, even though i have been doing it now for a number of years.

I have a very small machine which I got very cheap a few years ago, and while it’s not the best, after a lot of tinkering and adjusting I have managed to make a lot of good prints out of it. The only problem is that the print area is too small (90x90x90mm), I’ve out grown it and want to print larger things. So i have decided just to increase the size of my machine while keeping the same motors, switches, etc. and this is where the problem comes in. The problem is that I’m changing the Z-axis to a belt drive so i will need to reconfigure the settings, however I cannot find any information on the board I have to enable me to re-flash it.

It appears to be based on an arduino mega, with an attached “RepRap Discount Smart Controller”. So I’m hoping i can just plug it into my PC and flash it with the latest version of marlin, configure it and away i go...

Can anyone shed a little light on this subject? I really don’t want to buy another controller because this one works fine and I’m trying keep the cost down.

Thanks in advance

Jason
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What Size Electronics Cooling Fan? Mains switch wire gauge? (1 reply)

November 4, 2019, 11:03 pm
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I'm in the middle of doing a major overhaul on my 12V cartesian machine. Adding TMC2130 drivers with an SKR 1.3 board, MeanWell LRS-350-12 PSU, power socket with switch, and TFT touch screen. I also plan on building an enclosure to reduce warping with PETG, so I've been designing a separate electronics housing to keep the electronics away from the heated enclosure.

Problem is, I've heard the TMC2130 drivers run hot, so I think I should add additional cooling. My first idea is to put in a 60mm Noctua fan at the back of the enclosure itself (enclosure size is 150mm W x 290mm D x 100mm H). I assume that would be powerful enough to keep the entire box cool, drivers included, but I honestly don't know how to calculate the right fan size for a given volume. My second idea is to install a 40mm fan inside the case, mounted to the controller in order to cool the drivers directly. The only problem I foresee with this is that it may be more effective to just cool the entire box (do the TMC2130s get so hot that they require direct cooling?). So, that's my predicament - cool the whole box or just cool the drivers? If I cool the whole box, what size fan should I use?

As for my other question, I'm also installing this 5A fused switch. I'm generally paranoid about using too small of a wire gauge, especially for mains power. I was planning on using 12ga wire, but it is so stiff and the 12ga spade terminals I have are too wide for the slots on my power supply. Is 12ga necessary for a 12V machine with a 200W heated bed? What gauge do you use for mains power?

[attachment 113229 HousingBack.jpg]


[attachment 113230 HousingFront.jpg]
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SKR 1.3: Setting Junction Deviation in firmware has no effect (no replies)

November 6, 2019, 12:17 pm
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I just realized that my previous post on this topic is in the Turkish RepRap user group. Woops.

The original post is here:
[reprap.org]
I also posted the question here:
[3dprinting.stackexchange.com]

The long and the short of it is that uncommenting the JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM setting doesn't appear to do anything. When I power cycle the controller (SKR 1.3), I have to go through the printer's menus (Configuration > Advanced Settings > Jerk > Junction Dev), and the setting is "0.00" When I start prints with this setting, there is a FULL stop and start of the motors on every angle change. That sucks. When I manually set "Junction Dev" in the printer menu, the problem with motor motion goes away until the controller is rebooted and the setting gets reverted.

My Marlin configuration files are on github heer:
[github.com]
and here:
[github.com]

Is it possible that this is a bug in the SKR (or maybe the TFT24)?

Any help or input about things I can try will be appreciated!
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SKR v1.3 - Sending 5v to signal on endstop? (1 reply)

November 11, 2019, 2:54 pm
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Hi, I've made a voltage divider for my inductive proximity sensor that will be used with an SKR v1.3

Now I'm plugging it in directly into the 12v output of the board, spliced in with wires from the case and hotend cooling fans. When something is detected, the Signal line receives 5v. When nothing is detected, the line outputs 0v (zero volts).

I couldn't find a conclusive answer, but can the Signal line of Z-min (probe) handle 5v? (see another topic here) Or should I make it so that the voltage is even lower? Through some googling I found out that the analog voltage is 3,3v and digital voltage is 5v. But it didn't give me a conclusive number and I am not willing to take any risk since the SKR board is needed in a project that I need to finish soon!

I have also used another inductive sensor on my other 3D printer, but that was one with the type ending on 'BX'. This sensor has 'BY' at the end of it's type, this means this is sensor cannot use the same voltage divider that I used in my other machine with a diode.
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Where is the Open Source Code for MKS TFT Touch-Display? (no replies)

November 12, 2019, 9:31 am
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Hello,

I want to know how MKS TFT works and how does the code look?
Thinking about to change GCODE and add more infos and buttons.
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Odd problem with Trigorilla board and Pronterface (no replies)

November 13, 2019, 5:36 am
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Summary:
I have recently built an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus delta - it works 100% with Repetier-Host, but fails to connect with Pronterface.

History:
When I first got this machine it showed up on my Linux system as /dev/ttyACM0, and Pronterface had no difficulty connecting to it. Unfortunately the version of Marlin that was pre-loaded on the board was useless at auto-calibration, so I upgraded to Marlin 1.1.9 and worked successfully through the calibration procedure.

Current situation:
Now the printer works perfectly when connected to Repetier-Host, so clearly the link between the Trigorilla board and Linux is good. When I try to connect using Pronterface all I see in the console is "connecting..." followed by "SENT: M105" (report temperatures) repeating every few seconds (with debug on). Pronterface doesn't make the connection and appears to be waiting for a response from the printer. On very rare occasions the printer will make the connection and from that point on everything is normal - but this is VERY rare.

After the Marlin upgrade the printer now appears as /dev/ttyUSB0, but that may just be a red herring as far as this problem is concerned. Note that I'm using the same connecting lead and the same USB port to connect to the one Trigorilla board.

I have tried to look at the comms setup in each program and they appear to be identical, as far as I can tell; there aren't many options to play with apart from the baud rate. The baud rate on the board and in both programs is 250000 - originally the baud rate of the Trigorilla board when purchased 115200, but I'm reluctant to down-grade the Marlin code while it's working OK on Repetier-Host.

I also have a Prusa i3 clone that's using a RAMPS board that I've also upgraded to Marlin 1.1.9, and that is working perfectly with both programs at the same baud rate.

Can anyone give me any clues about what to look at next?
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Problem with SPI, need solution for Azteeg X5 GT board, SPI not working (no replies)

November 24, 2019, 9:08 pm
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HI,

Im new to the X5 GT board and just installing into my cube pro re build, running:
Marlin 2.0.x Bugfix ( current version)
Pauncatt Bigfoot 2660 drivers on 5 slots
Viki2 LCD
Water cooled Cube Pro hack
E3D Karaken 4 print head

Ive attached my config, pins and config.adv files in case.
Im have big problems getting the SPI to return via M122 a connection as below.

Can anyone suggest anything they can see obvious and wrong??

cheers
Jason

"Send: M122
Recv: X Y Z E E1
Recv: Enabled true true true true true
Recv: Set current 800 800 800 800 800
Recv: RMS current 673 673 673 673 673
Recv: MAX current 949 949 949 949 949
Recv: Run current 23/31 23/31 23/31 23/31 23/31
Recv: Hold current
Recv: CS actual
Recv: PWM scale
Recv: vsense 1=.165 1=.165 1=.165 1=.165 1=.165
Recv: stealthChop
Recv: msteps 16 16 16 16 16
Recv: tstep
Recv: pwm
Recv: threshold
Recv: [mm/s]
Recv: OT prewarn
Recv: OT prewarn has
Recv: been triggered
Recv: off time 3 3 3 3 3
Recv: blank time 24 24 24 24 24
Recv: hysteresis
Recv: -end -1 -1 -1 -1 -1
Recv: -start 1 1 1 1 1
Recv: Stallguard thrs 0 0 0 0 0
Recv: DRVSTATUS X Y Z E E1
Recv: stst
Recv: olb
Recv: ola
Recv: s2gb
Recv: s2ga
Recv: otpw
Recv: ot
Recv: Driver registers:
Recv: X 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
Recv: Y 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
Recv: Z 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
Recv: E 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
Recv: E1 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
Recv:
Recv:
Recv: Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Recv: Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Recv: Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Recv: Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
Recv: Testing E1 connection... Error: All LOW
Recv: ok"

Project:
[attachment 113510 DSC_0018.JPG]
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Installing a bootloader on a BIGTREETECH SKR v1.3 (no replies)

November 28, 2019, 10:51 pm
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I have seen a few requests for this info but no answers. So I thought I would document it here (since I just needed to do this)

It is identical to flashing a boot loader on a smootheboard but with different pins and a additional switch, see smootheboard docs here

You need a device to act as a USB to logic levels serial converter.
The serial pins on the SKR 1.3 are listed as being 5v tolerant but I used a 3.3v capable FTDI converter, just to be safe.

You also need something to act as a normally open switch .
Connect the two leads of the switch to the two pins of the BOOT Jumper on the SKR 1.3 (under the ZUART pins)

Connect the following FTDI pins to the SKR 1.3 (you can use the TFT connector or the AUX-1 for this, I used AUX-1)
FTDI GND   ->  AUX-1 pin 4 GND  
FTDI RX    ->  AUX-1 pin 6 TX
FTDI TX    ->  AUX-1 pin 8 RX
If your confused about which pins are what, they are labeled on the bottom of the PCB.

Now perform the following Incantation

Power on the SKR 1.3 (I have the power jumper for 5v set to USB, so all I needed to do was plug in the USB cable)
Press and hold the RESET button
Press and hold the BOOT button (the switch you added)
Release the RESET button
Release the BOOT button (the switch you added)

The controller is now waiting for data over the serial port

Plug the FTDI into your computer and identify what serial port is come up as. (I'm using Linux and its shows as /dev/ttyUSB0)

Now you will need some software. See [smoothieware.org] for what you need for your operating system.
You also need a bootloader from the above link.

Since I'm using Linux I used the command: "pc21isp -wipe DFU-Bootloader.hex /dev/ttyUSB0 230400 12000"
The output was 
lpc21isp version 1.97
File DFU-Bootloader.hex:
	loaded...
Start Address = 0x000000CD
	converted to binary format...
	image size : 13944
Image size : 13944
Synchronizing (ESC to abort). OK
Read bootcode version: 2
4
Read part ID: LPC1768, 512 kiB FLASH / 64 kiB SRAM (0x26013F37)
Will start programming at Sector 1 if possible, and conclude with Sector 0 to ensure that checksum is written last.
Wiping Device. OK 
Sector 1: ..............................................................................................
Sector 2: ..............................................................................................
Sector 3: ..........................................
Sector 0: ..............................................................................................
Download Finished... taking 7 seconds
Now launching the brand new code

Reset the controller to make sure its running new bootloader.

The bootloader has been reinstalled.

Then you drop a firmware.bin on the SD card to install the firmware like normal.
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Trying to update Marlin on this HY_BASE_L V1.0 board... (1 reply)

December 4, 2019, 9:35 pm
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OMG.

So I have these two knock-off printers (Alunar M508) I bought a while ago. They are very similar to the Anet A8's.

My buddy updated the firmware for the one printer, but forgot how he did it8-), so I'm stuck trying to figure out how to update the firmware on my own.

Each machine has a board that says HY_BASE_L V1.0 on it. The processor says ATMEGA 2560 on it. There's no info on the internet about these boards. Frustrating.

I downloaded the latest version of Marlin and the Arduino IDE.

I did some research and decided to the use the "Anet 1.0" Marlin Config files. I opened the Marlin.ino file using Arduino IDE. I connected the printer to my laptop using the supplied USB cable. When I go to the tools menu, the port says COM4(ATMEGA 2560 or something else can't remember). When I click board info it tells me Arduino ATMEGA 2560. I selected that as the board in tools > board, but when I compile I'm getting an error that says to use sanguino and some other processor ATMEGA 1284P or something. When I do all that it successfully compiles, but why? I feel like thats not right, but I don't know much about all this.

Anyways.... after compiling I get some "avrdude stk500_getsync" error, which I read is a communication error. I tried pushing the reset button, restarting Arduino IDE, uploading with printer on and printer off, changing which usb I use on my laptop.

I dont know what else to do. This is frustrating. Should of never bought these machines.
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New replaceable stepper driver form-factor (2 replies)

December 14, 2019, 4:50 pm
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Greetings,

I've been designing my own controllers for about two years now. I really find the StepStick form factor to be limiting in two ways:

a) the board real estate is quite small and one has trouble fitting larger ICs like TMC2660 or TCM5161
b) the cooling on these is not great, because you have only one side exposed

On the other hand I have grown to appreciate the ability to quickly swap the drivers, when a new IC comes along with better features.

Here is a proposal:

Design a new form factor using PCIe 1x slot as base. The drivers would stack vertically which would provide cooling on both sides. Can have a bit more latitude with respect to the driver board size (my current experiment is around 40x40mm). PCIe 1x has 36 pins, which allows for more interesting things like automatic chain ID assignment.

Here are some pictures of my experimental design:
Google photos shared album

For reference this is a link to the board and driver schematics.
GitHub.com
Thoughts?
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Issue with y motor on SKR v1.3 (3 replies)

December 19, 2019, 2:52 pm
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Hi All,
I am an owner of a Tronxy X5SA

I updated my motherboard to an skr v1.3.

I have installed Marlin v2.0 bugfix on it and I have a problem. one motor, the one under the y driver, is not working.

I have tried to:
invert xy motors, same driver always not working
invert drivers and same position is not moving (y)
I then launch the M122 command and all the motors seem to work fine from a software point of view.

The configuration is a core xy, but I tried also running a cartesian configuration and nothing changes.

After several trial what I got to is: the motor under the x axis is always moving as it should. The motor under the y axis never moves.

Is it a problem of the electronic? Does anyone had the same problem or can advice on what else I could try, stated that it is not something that depends on the motor and wiring itself? (pin were checked)

Thank you very much to anyone can help me solve the issue.

Antonio

Has anyone idea why it is not working? is it something I am overseeing or it is a faulty motherboard, even if I am not getting any error?
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SKR 1.3 PC Recognize issue (1 reply)

January 1, 2020, 6:29 pm
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Hi, unfortunately i have connection issue recently. Before i can connect board any problems. I don't know why but now i try two computers and I saw just Unknown Device in device menager. I use win10 both computer and as far as i know no need driver for win10. Also i find "smoothieware-usb-driver-v1.1" on the internet. But it doesn't help.
Any help would be very good.

Thanks.
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PandaPi - Raspberry Pi as a motherboard for 3D printer (no replies)

January 11, 2020, 3:14 am
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Recently I found on GitHub - PandaPi (https://github.com/markniu/PandaPi) project. A Raspberry Pi HAT board that turns a Raspberry Pi as a motherboard for 3D printer.

[attachment 114081 PandaPi.jpg]

Kind of interesting, because it seems to use a Marlin version for Linux and directly generate step motor pulses and control signals by using WiringPi library.

Wondered if someone tested this board ?
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