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SKR V1.4 unable to get inductive Z functioning (2 replies)

January 27, 2020, 6:28 pm
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Hi

Swapped out a MKS GEN L with this and fresh Marlin 2 bug fix. I’ve used Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN P0_10 and using M119 it shows proper triggering when metal close. But when I home Z, it ignores this sensor and is expecting Z_MIN. I do not have that pin used or defined in Marlin. If I // use_zmin_pin out, I get sanity errors “enable use_zmin_plug when homing to z to min”.

What am I missing?
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SKR 1.3 Power Problems (no replies)

January 27, 2020, 4:03 pm
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I recently bought an SKR v1.3 and, after struggling with the stallguard feature in the attached TMC5160s, I put a scope on it and was shocked to find 2-3V of ripple on the 5V switching power supply even though the 24V input had only 120mV of ripple going in. They do seem to have put some thought into the filter network on the 3.3V supply (not that it helps much with right around 1V of ripple), but there's no such network on the 5V supply. Just curious if this is typical, or if my board is just defective--has anyone tried putting an oscilloscope on yours?
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Integrated TMC2208 UART mode wiring :S (1 reply)

February 3, 2020, 6:52 am
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Greetings everyone,

I am working on a new board layout similar to RUMBA but with integrated TMC2208.

I am looking for a schematic that includes UART mode connections between the drivers and the atmega2560 IC.

I stumbled on some articles considering this matter in a different way which is converting from the standard legacy mode to UART mode but I didn't help but notice when I looked into pin assignments that tx and rx pins are defined or mapped to regular digital and analog pins which struck me as ODD. Can anybody explain this matter?

I am thinking of connecting all the 4 motors with UART mode (if possible) for optimum performance directly without the need of jumpers or any external modification ( I know it is not recommended for flexibility use but I want to know how to do this first, then I will work on flexibility later).

Thank you !
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TMC2208 Msteps Problem (no replies)

February 5, 2020, 4:20 pm
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Hi, i configured driver to 256 microsteps. And i don't know exactly but must be at least 16 steps. I try to calculate steps/mm on reprap prusa calculator. If i chose 1/16 microSteps and 2mm pitch my steps settings should be 1600. But now i using only 200steps/mm. So i using 1/2 microSteps?
Also my xy configiration is 40Steps/mm. But 2mm belt pitch and 20teeth pulley it has 1/8 Microsteps?

So what is the problem?

I checked settings with M122 Code it says 256msteps?:
M122
X Y Z E
Enabled false false false false
Set current 800 800 800 1200
RMS current 1436 1436 1436 1160
MAX current 2025 2025 2025 1636
Run current 25/31 25/31 25/31 20/31
Hold current 12/31 12/31 12/31 10/31
CS actual 0/31 0/31 0/31 0/31
PWM scale 0 0 0 0
vsense 0=.325 0=.325 0=.325 0=.325
stealthChop false false false false
msteps 256 256 256 256
tstep 0 0 0 0
pwm
threshold 3162 3162 21083 8433
[mm/s] 100 100 3 30
OT prewarn false false false false
OT prewarn has
been triggered false false false false
off time 0 0 0 0
blank time 16 16 16 16
hysteresis
-end -3 -3 -3 -3
-start 1 1 1 1
Stallguard thrs
DRVSTATUS X Y Z E
stst
olb
ola
s2gb
s2ga
otpw
ot
157C
150C
143C
120C
s2vsa
s2vsb
Driver registers:
X 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
Y 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
Z 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!
E 0x00:00:00:00 Bad response!


Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
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Creality ender 1.1.4 board questions. (no replies)

February 10, 2020, 1:07 am
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My second-hand ender 3 pro came with this board (creality1.1.4) a melzy board with trinamic 2208's apparently, And I am wondering if I can use this board with a cr10, and modify the size of the build volume in the firmware somehow. I replaced my 1.1.4 with a skr e3 v1.2 which I am happy with but I don't want to just trash this.... and i have some cr10s in bad shape that need some electronics and repairs ... Would plugging the board in my pc via USB without it being connected to the stepper drivers ruin the board? does it even have a bootloader or do I need to install one? Can I add a probe to it? Any answers would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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SKR V1.3 stepper motor power leads (1 reply)

February 15, 2020, 4:31 pm
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Hello. This is probably a very simple question, but given that this is my first attempt at design and build of a delta i would like to make sure that I am doing the right thing before damaging anything. I am using nema 17 4 wire motors that were controlled by an arduino mega. I have found the coil pairs which are the same on all 4 motors (X,Y,Z,E) the 2 on the left of the plug are a pair and the 2 on the right are a pair, so I assume that one pair are 1a 2a and the other 1b2b. My problem is which is which (or does it not matter as long as they are a pair?). I ask because the pins on the SKR board are 1b1a2a2b and so I will need to fit new plugs. Do I need to know which is which ie: would it be a problem if they were 1b2a1a2b for instance. Thanks in advance for any assistance with this.
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blue screen on skr1.3 with lcd 12864 (2 replies)

February 16, 2020, 3:45 am
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Good morning all
I recently bought the skr1.3 motherboard and I have the screen of my tronxy x5s a reprapd1scount smart controller the LCD-12864
unfortunately when i upload the marlin file by following step by step the bigtreetech video. I still have a blue screen. I almost try everything I don't know what to do help me please
none of the previous posts have solved my problem and I am really new to programming
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my computer no longer recognizes my motherboard (1 reply)

February 16, 2020, 5:14 am
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my pc doesn't recognize my mother anymore and i don't know why.
I can't upload anything in it anymore
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Z axis only goes one way (no replies)

February 21, 2020, 9:12 am
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Hi all,
I received an MKS Gen v1.4 replacement for my Tronxy x1. Flashed it with Repetier and using RepRapdiscount full graphics display. Only problem I am having is that the Z axis only wants to go down not up. Wit power off I raise the Z axis and then power the board on and try the homing and all is good. Then I move the X and Y axis in both directions (no problem). However the Zaxis only clicks when I try to move it up. Swapped driver boards and still does the same thing. Checked ref. voltage and It is good. And now I am at a loss.
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One ESP32 pin controlling a shift register? (no replies)

March 3, 2020, 10:42 am
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I stumbled upon an old article describing a simple way to drive a shift register with only one pin. This method utilizes input capacitance combined with the fact that shift register 'shifts' on rising clock edge to drive the Data input of the shift register.

[www.edn.com]




Variable duty cycle clock output seems to be a perfect application for ESP32 RMT peripheral. It has up to 80MHz resolution and combined with fast shift registers like MC74VHC595 [datasheet.lcsc.com] one ESP32 could, conservatively, drive 64 'virtual' pins with 8 real pins. To make it better one could use real pin to control STROBE instead of RCD network for faster and synchronized output across all 8 RMT peripheral pins.

Has this been done already?
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Azteeg x5 GT with BSD2660 and miniViki Wifi not working together: TMC connection error (5 replies)

March 10, 2020, 10:01 am
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Hello there people! I am hoping to find some help with this.

Trying to assemble my first 3D printer from scratch (only owned a CR-10s before, that I upgraded a lot). I chose the azteeg x5 gt and want to run marlin 2.0 on it, because I want to run a dual Z axis with two steppers and the documentation of panucatt seems non existent on that issue...

I have compiled Marlin 2.0.0.4 bugfix from git for the Azteeg 5X GT.
Without the LCD (panucatt Mini Viki Wifi) the board initializes and the steppers (Bigfoot BSD2660) all register as ok. I can send M122 and the steppers move when homing.

However, when I connect the LCD the display comes on when booting, shows some noise before the marlin logo, then it reports "TMC connection error" and when sending M122 from the pc, the drivers do not report back:

SENDING:M122
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW

I tried to investigate this and have been googling up and down the internet, but I can't figure it out. I think it has something to do with the SPI channel of the LCD maybe interfering? Does that even make sense technically?

Also I have tried with the tx/rx lines of the wifi backpack connected to the board and disconnected, because I thought that might be an issue, but it makes no difference.

I would be super happy if anyone could shed some light on this and help me debug. Thanks a bunch in advance!
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"TMC connection error" with TMC2209 drivers (no replies)

March 10, 2020, 2:36 pm
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Hello,
I have home made 3D printer, Ramps board with latest 2.0.4.4 Marlin release and Bigtreetech TMC2209 drivers on X and Y axis. I am able to move axis, but UART connection don't work. "TMC connection error" is shown on LCD all the time.

I checked all connections multiple times, ask for support on FB page, seeking for solution on internet but infortunately, after one month, I still didn't manage to solve it. So I am asking you for some help.

Regards,
Luka
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cannot connect to printer (no replies)

March 16, 2020, 5:45 am
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Hello, I've run into another problem as title, I built the printer (self designed delta) installed Marlin firmware (2.0.2) onto a SKR V1.3 board and the printer ran, calibrated and I loaded a test block stl, I ran the test file but without filament, Every thing went OK but I then had to leave the project for about a week and a half. When I came back to it the problem appeared, so I rebuilt the firmware with 4.0.4.4.I did not think that it would be much of a problem (it can only be baud rate or port right?) but to date I have tried every combination of port/baud rate available between configuration.h and Repetier Host without success. At present when I turn the printer on the LCD shows Marlin boot screen and then the usual "operating screen" but Repetier shows the No start message. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
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Smart controller SD card reader is worn out (3 replies)

March 21, 2020, 6:30 am
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Hi,

I run an MKS Sbase 1.3 board with a normal Reprap Full Graphic Smart Controller, and I print from the SD card. Now the SD card reader is worn out. I replaced the SD card but that is not the problem; the cards slide in and out very easily. And often I need to retry a lot of times before the card is read properly. So, simple solution would be to just replace the controller that includes the SD card reader. But I would like to upgrade something, avoid the problem in the future. Is there for instance a mechanically better SD card reader I could solder in place of the original? Maybe one that reads MicoSD direct, as that is what I fit into my computer, and via a regular size dummy into the printer. Or are there such smartcontrollers but with USB stick readers?

Please don't direct me to the MKS TFT option, I fought that darn thing for ages and all has been perfect since I 'downgraded' to the normal smart controller.

Cheers,

Hugo
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Tmc2208 how otp work? (no replies)

March 27, 2020, 11:30 am
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Hello there.
I've 2 of this driver for X and Y.
I can't control it from marlin,cause I've a gt2560 rev3

Anyway...I can control it with FTD chip usb serial converter,and the program from watterott.

Well...I can't understand how otp work.Ive read the datasheet but is not clearly enought
I don't know what registers I can write,and if I can, can write only the params 1????
For example,I wanna threshold for spreadcycle set to 75...How can do it?

And I cannot find a valid source,where is well explained.
Someone wanna help or illuminate me?
Thanks
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Using an ATX psu's "power good" signal for power loss recovery (no replies)

March 28, 2020, 9:32 am
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So, as I am building myself another printer and I'm planning on using an ATX computer supply, I decided to read up on the ATX spec and I found something quite interesting.



The "power good" signal is pulled low when the power supply has not yet reached a propper voltage or when the voltage starts dropping, which gets me thinking "what if I let marlin's power-loss recovery monitor the 'power good' pin in order to (hopefully) save my prints?"

Has anyone ever tried this? Does it work?
If it does, does Marlin try to get the nozzle away from the print as in not to make a blob?


Sidenote: I will be using a main's powered silicon heater for the bed, which means I should have a few more milliseconds of power than most cases.
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Shunt placement? (no replies)

March 29, 2020, 11:55 am
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I can't figure out how to correctly place the shunts (jumpers) on my SKR v1.4. I have a set of 4 DRV8825s and a set of TMC2208s that I can use. Where should I place the shunts for my Kossel to work? I don't know if I should go standalone or UART. Whatever it takes to get me printing again. TIA
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Problem - MKS Sbase 1.3 part cooling fans (no replies)

March 29, 2020, 11:58 am
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Hello All,

I’ve tried searching the forums and endless googling and I’m still stuck, so I’ve resorted to this for help.

In short - I don’t know how to add software (slicer) controlled part cooling fans on my MKS SBASE 1.3 board running Marlin 2.0.5.2.

I’ve a homemade delta with dual part cooling fans on the end effector. I have my fans connected to P2_06 E1 Heater and also FAN_AUTO_ON set to HEATER_PIN_1 (P2_06) in Config_adv.h in marlin.

The problem is that the fans come on full when hotend is 50°> and can’t be controlled through pronterface or the screen (MKS TFT32)

Surely there is a way to control these fans so that I can leave them off for the first few layers and then bring them on? Or reduce them to 30-40% when printing ABS?

What am I doing wrong??
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Cheap Stepper Controller for Emergency Ventilator (no replies)

March 30, 2020, 1:44 pm
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Hi Folks! I've been volunteering my time creating a very cheap emergency ventilator that squeezes a BVM (bag-valve-mask, aka ambu bag) to supply Covid-19 victims with air. I have a working prototype which you can see in the video at the bottom of the post. I come from a 3D printing background, so right now I'm controlling the stepper motor with a spare MKS SBase, smoothieware, and a few lines of basic gcode (G0 X450, G0 X0, repeat ad infinitum). What I'd like to control it with is something like an Arduino Uno, a single stepper driver, and 3 or 4 potentiometers. The three pots control the depth of the squeeze, the speed of the squeeze, and the frequency of the squeeze. A current MIT project shows 4 knobs on their device, and my best guess on that is that the fourth knob controls dwell time (how long the ventilator pauses between squeezes). The problem is, I've never coded for an Arduino and barely even used one. Can I use some basic potentiometers as inputs to achieve this? Can an ATmega 328P issue enough instructions fast enough to something like a DRV8825 to drive a single Nema 17 at something close to its max usable speed? Lastly, I would love a few pointers on which resources I can find to develop the code necessary. Alternatively, if a bored Arduino pro would like to volunteer their time and just donate some workable code, that would be fantastic.

Here's a list of project goals:
  • Keep the hardware as cheap as possible
  • Drive the stepper motor and the arduino off a single 24v power supply (voltage divider for the arduino?)
  • Easily control frequency, depth, speed and dwell time of the stepper motor with knobs/potentiometers
  • Code needs to have acceleration built in to prevent exceeding the Nema 17's torque capabilities

And here is the video of the first prototype:
[youtu.be]
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SKR 1.3 reliability issues (no replies)

April 4, 2020, 10:04 pm
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I'm thinking this may be down to bad luck but I am now waiting for my 3rd SKR 1.3 now. They have been configured with TMC2130's and have both failed within a week.

I have heard a lot of good things about these boards so was surprised when the first died. I read somewhere that these boards are rather sensitive to static? So whilst getting the 2nd board up and running (replaced drivers just in case) I made sure to be grounded before touching any parts. I've been assembling all sorts of electronics kit since I was a child, without an anti-static strap and never had a problem so I doubt it is this.

The last thing I did with it was fit a full graphics LCD, which worked fine. Not long after I power cycled it and it did not come back up. My computer throws an error about the device not being recognised when plugged in and I notice that the red LED comes on and then slowly fades out. Checked all the wiring and there were no shorts or anything but I noticed that the CPU was too hot to touch.

The first SKR board that died which was a 1.4 and even took out the TFT board with it. Again, the CPU's in both of those were on the edge of catching fire and I had enough of this kind of thing with the Anet (which I'm sure would carry on printing quite happily if part of it was on fire).

I've come to think that these SKR boards are so fragile you don't have to do much more than breath on them and they pop!

Is there anything that I should be more weary of with these boards, I get the replacement today and could do without further problems. The 8 bit 2560 is solid but I want 32 bit..
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